Tips & Care: Pinching and Leaf Trimming (Defoliating) your Bonsai

What is the idea of trimming your bonsai?
Remember that during late spring and throughout the summer bonsai can quickly become overgrown, losing their shape and overall structure. The speed at which they grow depends on many factors, such as age, species and also the watering and feeding regime.To keep the growth balanced and in shape, trimming is necessary and essential for the development and maintenance of your tree, helping to create miniature trees, rather than overgrown bushes.

Trees should be allowed to have periods of free growth to keep them healthy. There is a close relationship between new shoots and new roots, so you can be sure that when a tree's shoots are extending, so are the roots. The extent of growth allowed will depend upon the stage of training. 

A tree in the development stage will benefit greatly from a period of free growth, which will help to thicken up the branches and trunk. For mature bonsai, growth should be kept more balanced and so shoots are scissor trimmed, pruning particularly vigorous shoots harder, before they begin to sap strength from other areas. The result will be shorter internodal lengths and more compact growth. However, if a branch is weak, allow it to grow to extend to provide it with extra strength the top of the tree (which is the most vigorous area in most species), with the lowest branches being weaker, (azaleas and kiyohime maples are notable exceptions to this growth pattern). 

This should always be taken into account when pruning or trimming trees, therefore it is usually necessary to prune harder higher up on the tree. If a bonsai is left to grow unchecked, the top will quickly become dominant, with the fine shoots near the apex becoming thick, ugly and out of scale.

Pinching the candles on pine trees once they are fully extended will result in back budding and compact growth. It is worth taking out the dominant central shoot, to allow more strength to be channeled into the weaker side shoots. If the candles are allowed to develop into shoots, the size and strength of the tree will be increased. These shoots should then be cut to the required length in midsummer, or have the end buds removed to encourage denser growth the following year. 

Removing all the candles in spring as they start to extend will produce new buds both at the tip and further back. Some of these buds will open in the same year, producing compact growth with smaller needles. By using these techniques and also by controlling the watering and feeding while the needles are opening, their length can be considerably reduced. Do not, however, try for tiny spruce-like needles as these look unnatural and can make the tree weak once a twiggy structure has become established, summer pinching is a useful technique to maintain the tree's shape and to develop greater ramification. For juniper, cypress and other similar conifers, hold the foliage in one hand and 'pluck' the new growth. The shoots will be removed cleanly, whereas using scissors would cause more browning at the ends, especially in dry and sunny weather. 

With deciduous trees, such as maples, zelkovas, elms, beech and similar species, pinch out the growing tip once new shoots begin to unfurl and extend past the first set of leaves deciduous trees usually grow far more rapidly than conifers, with new shoots extending quickly do not prune just to maintain a silhouette. The interior of the tree will quickly begin to die if it does not receive adequate light and ventilation, so this should be considered. Lack of light and air flow can also encourage pests and diseases. Thin out dense areas of foliage to ensure that whole branches remain healthy. Leaf pruning deciduous trees can help considerably, preventing die-back when pruning, if possible, leave the bud at the end of the shoot pointing in the direction in which you require the growth to extend. This practice is known as 'directional pruning' and is a useful technique which reduces the need for wiring if removing large branches, always ensure that the remaining wound is concave, so that it will heal neatly and quickly. 

Seal with cut paste or similar (remember you can even use school glue). An ideal time to remove large branches is during midsummer, after the initial burst of spring energy has subsided. This ensures a smaller callous and less bleeding, although branches can usually be safely removed at most times of the year. For conifers, consider the option of creating a jin pruning deciduous trees in late winter or early spring enables their form to be seen clearly. However, make sure that you are aware of any branches that have died, so that you do not remove a live branch and find that you have unwittingly left a dead one! Trees that have been winter pruned will benefit by being given protection from the elementswhen removing branches, if unsure whether the branch should be removed completely, prune back hard first. Leave some buds that could grow back if desired, so that your options are left open'Finger pruning' is at the top of the list of skills needed.For Junipers and Cedars and other conifers, this involves pinching new growth off wherever shaping and eliminating is carried out.Simple in theory, just support the tree or branch with one hand and take the new growth between your thumb and forefinger in the other. Remove with a sharp twist, but avoid pulling on the branch or tree.It will take some practice to be comfortable with the technique. 

Rather than damage a valued bonsai, gain some familiarity first by performing it on a small bush.Once you can remove the growth cleanly without tugging on the plant, you're ready to use it on your bonsai. For deciduous trees, such as Maples,  Chinese Elm or others, scissor tip pruning is best. Trim the new shoots back to your imagined point based on the sketch.Leaf pruning or defoliation is also common for some deciduous trees and bushes, such as a ficus. 

Carried out in mid-summer, you simply remove half of the leaves with a pair of fine scissors. Leave the stems intact. For this, when you trim outward, you want to trim back the shoots but just after the next series of leaves. Finally, leaf pruning is used for both tropical and deciduous plants. This helps reduce the size of the leaves, get rid of unsightly leaves, and encourage growth by creating two growing seasons in one.

Bonsai Root Pruning & Repotting (videos)

Tips & Care: Bonsai Root Pruning and Repotting

Root pruning is an fundamental part of good bonsai care. There is no tree that can survive in a container indefinitely without some sort of root work. 

Root Pruning is done to:

• Promote a fibrous root system
• Promote good surface roots
• Produce a balanced system
• Remove any deformed roots
• Check for pests and disease
• Balance the ratio between foliage and roots

Bonsai need water rich, nutritious material to grow their roots. In the earth this is no problem, roots can travel many tens of feet from the plant stem in search of nutrients and water. 

Roots should be examined at least every two years. Depending on the age and species, and the size of the pot, roots can be become root bound.

Roots will naturally curve somewhat inside the soil, when they encounter a hard obstacle such as the side of the pot, they curve inward. Eventually they have nowhere else to go as more roots occupy the available space.

The idea is that you should prune the roots and repot your bonsai when they show symptoms of decline and/or chlorosis, or when the bonsai is rootbound (it begins to push out of the pot).
The frequency of root pruning depends on the tree species, its container and the environment. Remember that root pruning damages the tree, restricting its ability to take up water and nutrients, so it has to be done at times of the year that the stresses on the plant are minimal. For temperate climate plants there are two times of the year that these conditions are optimal, late fall and early spring. Tropical plants can usually be root pruned and repotted during periods of 'quiescence' or slow growth.


Before that happens, they should be trimmed with very sharp scissors. Use a chop-stick or knitting needle and gently brush away the soil from the root ball.

Remove about a third of the soil to expose the roots you will be cutting. (your scissors will stay much sharper if they do not have to cut through the potting soil and the grit it contains)  Place the root ball in a bucket of water to prevent the roots from becoming too dry.

Then, trim back existing roots to about two-thirds to one-half their current length, eliminating a few younger and a few older roots.  

Be sure to leave a good number of main roots to serve as anchors and to continue to supply the plant with nutrients. Repot into a larger pot suitable for larger and older trees. To prevent the tree from tipping over after repotting you will need to secure the root ball in it's container with wire.

Anchor two lengths of wire inside the pot, either by securing them through the drain hole or the two anchor points some bonsai containers provide.

Place a piece of wire mesh over the drain hole, apply a layer of gravel for drainage and then a layer of soil slightly mounded near the middle of the pot.

Place the root ball on top of the mound and then bend the wire across the root ball to firmly anchor it in place. 

Continue to add soil until the roots are covered and the soil is just below the top rim of the container.

Position the rock planting slightly off-center and rotate until you have an attractive position.  Then press the planting into the loose media. Using one pair of ends, tie down the rock planting on one side, then the other. The rock planting should be secured firmly. If not, pass a loose end under the other tie; pull taut to take up any slack, and knot. Repeat if necessary. The ties will insure that the planting will not shake. Ties can be removed when the roots are established in the media. With the spoon firm down the surface of the visible media which should have sunk down about 1/4" below the pot's inner rim.

The first watering: Fill a pan with about 2" of water and allow the newly potted plant to sit in the water for 30 minutes or so.  This will allow all parts of the media to become totally saturated.  Allow the plant to drain, then give the surface a finishing leveling by gently patting with a spoon.

Watering a recently repotted bonsai is best done by the same saturation method.  The water pushes out all air from the porous media and replaces it with water.  New air rushes in as excess water drains out.  This repetitive sequence of total water saturation and air exchanges is the ideal condition for healthy root and plant growth.  Watering from the top does not wet all parts of the root-ball thoroughly.  Proper watering is the key to success!  Place your palm on the surface of the media.  If it feels wet,  don't water.  Water when it feels slightly cool.  Don't allow it to completely dry out!  You can also judge the amount of water in the container by the weight as a recently watered plant is noticeably heavier. 

   

How to take care of your Azalea Bonsai

Azalea are known for its bright pink blooms of stunning colors from bright red to pale pearl or red and white on the same bloom. It is commonly known as the "Royalty of the Garden". It is in Asia where it originated. The Buddhist monks cultivated Azaleas in different areas of Asia. Rhododendron which are Azalea Bonsai are probably the most common of the Bonsai Plants and there are many species to choose from. The nice thing about them is that they are very durable and pleasant to look at. Azalea Bonsai is one of the most popular bonsai in Japan and the Satsuki type is the chosen one among all the cultivar groups of azalea. The name Satsuki refers to the bloom period of the plant which is in the month of May to June (in accordance with the Asian lunar calendar) and they bloom later in the spring than other types, producing generous quantities of bright pink blossoms.

The Japanese believe in simplicity when it comes to aesthetics. And that is exactly what a tiny azalea bonsai reflects. Its culture is deeply rooted in the Asian culture and it adds not only a touch of class to your garden and home, but it also can provide a beautifully sedate focus for relaxation and meditation in your balcony.

The lovely thing about bonsai are that you can shape them in any style or design you desire. This is why it is an art. Although the Azalea can be used almost for all bonsai styles it is generally used for the root-over-rock, informal upright, slanting, semi-cascade style. Most bonsai artists will not shape one as a windswept or cascade style, as these do not reflect the natural growth habit of the Azalea. 

But we need to be aware that very few bonsai growers work with Azaleas because of the difficulty of keeping them healthy. There are, however, a few simple secrets that will allow just about anyone who is interested to grow a beautiful Azalea bonsai.

Azaleas come in roughly three varieties: Satsuki and Kurume, which are native to Japan, and the American Azalea, or Rhododendron, which is used extensively in landscaping in South America. The American varieties usually have larger leaves and flowers than the Japanese varieties. American Azaleas typically bloom in early spring. Satsuki and Kurume Azaleas typically have small leaves, which makes them better subjects for bonsai. 

The most common of the azalea bonsai tree to use is the Satsuki azalea bonsai. These types of flowers are by far the most popular in Japan to use as bonsai. The bonsai satsuki azalea is a hybrid that contains many distinct varieties of flowers within the species. They come in a wide variety of sizes and colors and often there are people that devote themselves to simply growing this species.

The Kurume azalea is also another species popular for use as a bonsai. It is a cross between the R kaempferi, R. obusum and R. kiusianum and has a wide range of colors with small funnel shaped flowers.

Unlike other Azaleas that bloom in early spring, the Chinzan can bloom frequently in late spring and summer, with many large 2″ salmon colored blooms. Satsuki Azaleas are known for their prized flowers and small evergreen leaves. Easy outdoor care.

Growing a bonsai from seed has its own merits. Most seeds will grow into plants inferior to the parents as the parents were selected from batches of hundreds of thousands of plants grown from seeds.  

Growing azalea from seed is a slow process at first. The good thing is that you can even create your own specie by the so called 'hybridizing'. By crossing two azaleas you can create many new azaleas that look different from both parents. Azalea and rhododendron seeds are very small as they are wind carried. The seedlings need special care. But they germinate well. An azalea will flower in 3 to 5 years when grown from seed. You can have something to put into a pot that will have one or more nice flowers in 5 or a bit more years. A real tree-like bonsai will take 10 more years. A big azalea will take 5 more. A big and old looking, add 10, 20 or more years. 

This is also why azalea or rhododendron seeds are often not available to be bought. 

Buying azalea nursery stock for bonsai is also often difficult. Especially if you want satsuki azalea, who have different flower aesthetics from western-bred azalea. In the west, different flowers on the same plant are an imperfection against which was selected strongly. 

Evergreen azaleas you can buy at almost all nurseries, but they are styled to be multi-trunk plants so they will make nice round bushes.

Satsuki azalea have several merits to them, but they are just another type of azalea cultivar. To me they are special because of the flower patterns.

In Europe, satsuki azalea are very rare. They are not used as garden plants and bonsai nurseries don't grow them themselves. They are all imported from Japan and importing cheaper smaller azalea is not worth the costs involved in importing. In the US we can have more luck as they grow well in the southern states close to the coasts (specially here in Miami). But strangely, in European countries with similar climates, they also don't seem available. Azalea should always be kept away from direct exposure to sunlight, especially in the summer season. It only needs partial sun. So it could be kept in a shade or a place which gets filtered sunlight. That is why it is a perfect option for your balcony. During the winter the tree should be protected from cold and chilly winds, ideally it should be placed in a greenhouse so that it gets shielded in a warm environment.

The type of soil to use for growing bonsai azaleas is one of the most important aspects of having a healthy plant. The soil needs to have good drainage, an acidic base of 5.0 to 6.0 and good ventilation. One way to accomplish this is to use a combination of 60 percent inorganic matter like perlite, sharp sand or Turface and 40 percent organic material such as pine bark or peat moss. Another good combination is to use 2 parts of peat moss, 2 parts of pine bark and 1 part of pumice.The soil mix used should not contain any small particles though, as it makes the watering of the plant difficult.

It is better to keep your Azalea in a damp soil, just damp enough to ensure that the plant is not in a drought condition. For this you need to monitor the soil and consider watering the plant whenever you find the soil to be dry. Just use your index finger to feel the moisture levels of the soil to determine if your bonsai needs watering. You should never let the soil completely dry out. If kept dry for too long, it could suffer serious damage. While watering you should always try to use natural water, using chlorinated water will result in the soil loosing its acidity and this could damage your bonsai.  If you need to use hard water, consider adding a teaspoon of vinegar to a gallon of water and using that once every month.  Make sure to water every other day during the summer hotter days and soak your Satsuki in a bucket of water for 10 minutes once a week.

For new azalea bonsai repotting should be donet every year, but once the plant gets old you could consider repotting it every two or three years. When repotting ensure, that you trim a third of the the root balls and any mats that have formed in the roots.  

Azalea should be pruned during the late summer (at the end of every flowering season) and wiring should be considered during the months of spring to summer.  You should be cautious while pruning the old branches as they are very delicate and easy to break off.  Do not trim the Azalea Bonsai tree until after flowering, then you remove all the dead flowers. Clip the branches according to your own design. Also place the wire loosely or not too tight so as not to hurt the wood.  

The Azalea is different from most plants used for bonsai. It grows most dominantly at the sides and base of the plant rather than at the top. So you need harder pruning at the bottom and sides. It responds well to being hard pruned and cut back to a stump after flowering. Do not do this two years in a row.  You should use aluminum wire instead of your traditional copper wire to shape your azalea bonsai because azaleas have brittle branches that can snap if you’re too aggressive with your wiring.

The azaleas need fertilizer but not while they have flowers. Begin in spring and do it every two weeks until you notice the buds. If you fertilize while the plant flowers, you will lose both flowers and buds. After the flowering begin the regime of fertilizing again but only do it once every month. Since this is an acid loving plant, use the fertilizer appropriate for that type of plant. Try to feed it with organic fertilizers.You could also consider using chemical fertilizers; generally you should use a half strength solution of any good Bonsai Fertilizer available at your local store. While using chemical fertilizers you should consider feeding the plant fortnightly.

Several pests like the azalea; like the caterpillars, aphids, scale insects and white flies. Remember that if you spray open flowers with a pesticide, they’ll wilt and fall. While you can use pesticides or insecticides to get rid of these pests, there is actually a more natural way to get rid of bugs without having to use pesticides. (For example you can use this home made Garlic Tea Spray by boiling a pint of water, throw in roughly chopped garlic cloves and steep until the water cools. Remove the garlic bits then spray).

I hope you have liked this post. Please leave your comment and let us know how we can improve our blog.

Azalea Bonsai (Videos)