Insect and Disease: Elm trees (Ulmus spp)

Elms are alternate-leaved, deciduous trees valued for their ornamental use as specimen or street trees.  There was a time when virtually every town and city in the northeaster United States was dominated by the majestic, vase-shaped American Elm (ulmus american); unfortunately, with the appearance and spread of Dutch elm disease (DED), many of them have died.

Because most elms are susceptible to so many insects and diseases, you might want to avoid using them in the landscape, but they are perfectly suitable for beautiful bonsai (specially the Zelkova species).  If you do decide to grow elms, consider planting lacebark elm (U. parvifolia), which is more resistant to DED and elm leaf beetles. 

Plant elms in spring or fall as bare-root or balled-and-burlapped trees.  Full sun and well-drained soils are best.

Problems:

Leaves with rectangular holes or skeletonized: Cause: Elm leaf beetles.  this is a 1/4inch yellow-green beetle with a dark line on the outer edge of each wing cover.  It lays its eggs in spring on the undersides of leaves; these eggs hatch in June.  One to several generations may occur each year.

Both adults and the 1/2inch black-spotted, yellow larvae feed on the leaves, eating everything but the veins.  Trees are often defoliated and so weakened that they are susceptible to other insect and disease problems.  Control beetles by spraying leaves with BTSD, particularly in June.

Leaves wilted and yellow or brown, drop early, branches show symptoms one at a time: Cause: Dutch elm disease (DED).  

Caused by a fungus, DED is spread by the feeding of elm barck beetles, and by natural root grafts between trees growing in the same area.  Keep trees healthy with proper pruning, mulching, and watering (during drought).  Quickly repair all wounds to help prevent insect attacks and subsequent infection.  Once the disease is established, there is no effective remedy.  Remove and immediately destroy all diseased or dying elms.  Remove the stump if possible or peel the barck off to below the soil line to deter elm bark beetles from feeding there.

Bark tunneled:  Cause: Elm bark beetles.  
These 1/10inch dark reddish brown beetles attack weakened elm trees and serve as vectors of DED.  The adult beetles bore small holes through the bark and lay eggs in the wood beneath.  The eggs hatch into 1/4inch curved, white grubs that continue to mine underneath the bark, creating winding tunnels, known as galleries.  See the opposite page for an illustration of their damage.  The grubs transform into adult beetles, which emerge through small holes in the bark.  If the tree they emerge from was infected with DED, the beetles will carry the disease spores as they fly away to feed on other elm trees.

Make trees less attractive to beetles by promoting vigorous, healthy growth with proper pruning, mulching, and watering (during drought).  Eliminate breeding areas by removing and destroying weak and dying trees.

Leaves skeletonized:  Cause:  Canker-worms.  Both spring and fall cankerworms are 1/2-1inch yellow or greenish caterpillars that feed on the foliage of birches, often defoliating the tree.  

Japanese beetles.  This 1/2inch long pest has a metallic blue-green body and bronze wing covers.  Hand pick in early morning if there are only a few.  Apply milky disease spores to your lawn for long-term control.

Leaves wilted and yellow or brown, drop early, entire crown of tree affected:  Cause:  Phloem necrosis.  In later stages, the inner bark (phloem) is discolored and smells faintly of wintergreen.  This disease, also known as elm yellows, kills plants quickly, often in single growing season.  It is spread from tree to tree by leafhoppers.

Controlling leafhoppers by spraying infested plants with insecticidal soap or pyrethrin may reduce the spread of phloem necrosis.  If trees are close together, however, the disease can also spread underground by means of natural root grafts.  Once plants are infected, there is no control: remove and destroy the infected trees. 

Another examples of pests affecting the Ulmus spp.:

• Leaves wrinkled and discolored:  Cause:  Aphids
• Leaves tunneled:  Cause: Leafminers
• Leaves yellow; stems and leaves covered with small bumps: Cause: Scales  
• Trunk or branches with small holes; limbs die or break off:  Cause: Borers
• Trunk or branches with oozing lesions; branch tips die back: Cause: Canker
• Leaves with spots:  Cause: Leaf spots
• Leaves with powdery white coating:  Cause Powdery mildew

The History of Herbs (Medicinal Remedies)

Since earl times plants have provided the medicinal remedies of the human race. The whole structure of modern pharmacopeia is based on man's historical knowledge of flowers, herbs, plants and trees.  Nature has provided a complete storehouse of herbal remedies to cure all ills of mankind, and today's medicines are only the chemical-pharmaceutical translations of the healing properties of herbs.  Looking back through history, we find there is not a single plant that has not been used at one time or another by men as a foodstuff, a healing, life giving medicine, or a deadly poison.  Since the dawn of civilization man has fed on berries, fruits, grasses, herbs, leaves and roots.  His selection of vegetable food in these prehistoric times was entirely by trial and error.  He continued to eat the plants that agreed with him while remaining away from those that made him ill.  After man mastered the use of fire, the roasted flesh of animals came into the foreground of the human diet and he began the domestication of animals for his daily needs.  

The shepherds of the tribal community flocks, remaining close to nature and having plenty of time during their lonely tasks, observed the behavior of various plants and the effects on their animal charges.  In this way they became the sages and medicine men of their tribes.  These herb-wise shepherds and medicine men of  prehistoric times developed into the herbalists of ancient Persia and the philosophers of antiquity.  In addition to their necessary food-plants, all the old agricultural nations cultivated herbs for their medicinal needs.  In the early days of the Christian Church, the cultivation of herbs was forbidden.  Knowledge of herbs was considered pagan because of the many mystic and magical rites connected with their use.  In the Dark Ages many of the herbal manuscripts of early days were destroyed by the martial rulers and their mercenaries who were devoid of any interest in science and culture.  The knowledge of herbs and their properties was kept alive only by the monks in the seclusion and comparative security of their monasteries.  They studied, translated and copied painstakingly by hand again and again, the few remaining herbals for posterity.  In the later Middle Ages the cultivation of herbs was again taken up by monks and nuns, who were not only healers of the soul, but also physicians and nurses to their flocks.  

The herb garden, called Physick Garden , became part and parcel of every cloister and monastery and, later on, of every castle, court, hospital and medical college.  Alembic laboratories, or distilling plants, the nuclei of our modern pharmaceutical industry, were set up in monasteries and hospitals to convert the herb crop into medical potions and liquors.  The rise of the chemical-pharmaceutical industry made the bulk of these herbal concoctions obsolete, but we still use many as spices and condiments for our food, in medicinal teas and infusions, and monastery herb liquors such as Benedictine, Peres Chartreuse, Trappistine and others continue to serve as stomachic tonics.  Throughout human history, flowers, plants, trees and herbs became so interwoven with man's daily life that they developed into symbols for his expressions and sentiments, passions and affections, fears and superstitions.  In ancient mythology, folklore and legend, the fertile mind assigned to plants their medicinal and nutritive properties.  The religious, legendary and symbolic meaning attached to plants has been handed down to us through the ages and today we still use many special plants in accordance with their age-old symbolism, as at Easter, Christmas, St. Patrick's and numerous other holidays and special occasions.  

Thanks Ernst Lehner.

The History of Agriculture

Untold millenia ago the cave man consumed as vegetable food the leaves, stalks, roots, fruits, nuts and seed gathered by the women and children of his tribe in the jungles and forests surrounding his habitat. He was forced to drift north and south with the seasons in pursuit of his food.  One day he discovered that the seed dropped by accident near his cave grew into new seed-producing plants.  It gave him the idea of planting seeds purposely near his dwelling place and, finally of clearing a patch of ground, preparing it by loosening the sod with a crooked stick.  (the first hoe), and seeding it.  Thus man changed from a nomadic poacher roaming for food to a settled farmer, waiting for his next harvest.  With the growth of the tribe, more and more cleared acreage became necessary to meet the rising demand for food, and more manpower was needed to prepare and till the fields.  Ultimately, man decided that the established law of the jungle, to kill all this enemies (the members of other tribes) immediately after they were taken prisoner on his hunting forays, was wasteful.  He brought them home and put them to work on his fields, the first forced-labor slaves in human history.  They call for still more intensive food production for the rising population of these settlements led to the idea of harnessing domesticated animals to the hoe.  Thus the plow became the new tool of agriculture.  

Agriculture is the scientific term for the art of cultivation the soil.

The word is derived from the Latin Ager (field) and cultura (tilling).

The practice of agriculture was the necessary antecedent to a higher form of cultural development, and wherever great states and empires were founded, cereals were grown as staple food.

The cultures of antiquity were all built around the agricultural centers of gran-growing peoples:  The Chinese, Indians, Koreans and Japanese in Asia; the Sumerians, Babylonians, Assyrians, Hittites, Phoenicians, Israelites and Syrians in the Near East; the Egyptians, Lydians, Nubians and Carthaginians in Africa; the Cretans, Greeks, Etruscans and Romans in Europe; the Incas, Mayas and Aztecs in South and Central America.  When we look at the farming methods and implements in the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries, we marvel at the thought that for nearly 7000 years of agricultural development the methods and tools of the toilers in the fields did not change very much.  In our century of industrialization we saw the rise of the mechanical behemoths of modern farming machinery, the reaper and the cotton gin, which not only boomed the agrarian economy of western nations but enhanced the process of industrialization and became a leading factor in the eventual establishment of the western nations as great world markets.  Newer developments in the field of chemistry led to still further uses for the products of agriculture.  Thus today we find need for plants and herbs not only as sources of food, clothing and medicine, but for such hundreds of newly developed industrial needs as tagger the imagination.  However, we have to realize that to this very day in large parts of South America, Africa and the Far East the agricultural methods and  the farming tools are still nearly the same as in Biblical times.

Thanks Johanna Lehner

How to feed your bonsai (Part 2)

Fertilizing:

Most plants in most soils will grow better if additional nutrients are provided b fertilizing.  A soil test will give a complete and accurate measure of the nutrients in the soil.  A general recommendation is that all soils need more nitrogen.  Shallow-rooted plants, such as grass and flowers, need more phosphorus and potassium.  Acid-loving plants, such as rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, junipers and pin oaks, often need more iron.  Sometimes sandy soils need micronutrients, but rarely clay soils.  Certain micronutrients may be deficient in certain parts of the country.  Boron is sometimes deficient in America's Pacific Northwest (as I was told by a friend).

Many fertilizers are available to supply additional nutrients.  Some fertilizers only supply one nutrient. Many supply N, P and K ONLY!!!. A few fertilizers include all the macronutrients and micronutrients (to review the list of macro and micro nutrients check Part 1 of this series Here!!!) 

The label on the package will indicate which nutrients are included, as well as the sources of the nutrients.  The nutrients are identical, whether they come from organic or synthetic source, but the source will affect how quickly the nutrients are available to the plants.  Ammonia sulfate and water soluble fertilizers release most of their nitrogen in a few days, and may burn plants if too much is applied.  Blood meal releases its nitrogen over a period of months.  Organic fertilizers and specially treated synthetic fertilizers release their nutrients slowly, so they last longer and will not burn.  Deeper-rooted trees and shrubs can be fertilized once a year, but shallow-rooted plants, such as grass and flowers, will need regular fertilizing throughout the growing season.

Water can move nitrogen several centimeters in the soil.  Nitrogen applied in the fall may be carried too deep into the soil by winter rains.  February and March is the best time to feed trees and shrubs.  Phosphorus and potassium hardly move in the soil.  To get them down to tree roots, punch a hole in the soil with a bar, or use a root-feeder and inject them 12 inches (30cm) deep every 24 inches (60cm) in rings from the trunk to twice the length of the branches.  The feeder roots are found throughout the area under and around a tree, not just at the drip line.

Thanks Rod Smith.

Products that contain micronutrients.

Micronutrients are supplied in special micronutrients packages (such as MicroMax, STEM, Apex micronutrient package and others) which bind readily to organic matter if used in conjunction with soilless mixes.

The micronutrient mix is sprinkled on the surface of dry soil and then watered in.  It will increase the acidity of the soil temporarily and is best applied when repotting, or once a year in spring, at bud break.

Back to Basics:

Bonsai will need feeding if you use the single-soil approach as they cannot live on water alone.  Feeding is easy, and here is a breakdown of feeds and the basic regime.

• A high Nitrogen feed makes the leaves grow.
• A low Nitrogen feed makes the branches, roots and cambium (under bark) grow.
• I recommend the low nitrogen feed for maples trees in the early flush of growth as it helps the leaves to become stronger.  Use it in the later part of the year, just prior to Fall or in the winter season in colder climates. Then at the very start of the growing season to encourage the development of branches and roots.
• 0.10.10 or similar is a Zero Nitrogen feed. This is used with most conifers at the beginning of the season and through the early stages of bud or candle development.
• Acid loving plants: Use Miracid or similar (Azaleas, satsukis, ericas and stewartia)

For young trees:

In SPRING use at half-strength when the buds are open 0-10-10. Then builds to full strength in late spring and use High Nitrogen after the first flush of growth.  Feed half-strength through most of the growing season in hotter areas.

In SUMMER if in a hot area, do not fertilize.  If in a cool area, stop in midsummer.  The trees cannot absorb fertilizer at this time: they go to into Semi-dormancy because of the heat and stop growing. (I have learned that after having bad experiences, after leaving 4 years in Miami, FL)

In FALL reduce to half-strength and only use a Low-Nitrogen fertilizer.  This helps the bonsai into the main dormant season in cooler climes.

Brand names varies from country to country or even from city to city or by Nurseries but in general it is fine to use popular houseplant food, but not lawn or grass food because it is far too high in nitrogen and can easily damage the roots.

For Mature trees:

I suggest that surface pellet feeds, such as Rapeseed Cake or Bio Gold are the best option. The direct feeding of liquid fertilizers through the soil should be no more than between two and four times a year when a bonsai is mature.  Too much feeding will generate lush growth.  Adding trace elements is, however, important. In all cases, when dealing with older trees, less is more.

Please, leave your comment, and advise for the next posts. We really appreciate your feedback.

How to feed your bonsai (Part 1)

Rod Smith has shared his knowledge with us and now it is time for you to learn from the master.

Let's start by learning the basic concepts about the nutrients, and then we will learn how, when and why to use them.

Macronutrients and Micronutrients

Plant need water, air, light, a suitable temperature and 16 nutrients to grow.  Plants get carbon, hydrogen and oxygen from air and water.  The other 13 nutrients come from the soil.  Soil nutrients are divided into two groups according to the amounts needed by plants.  

The macronutrients are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium and Sulphur.

The micronutrients, which are needed only in trace amounts, are iron, manganese, boron, zinc, copper, molybendum and chlorine.

These nutrients are essential for plant growth.  Plants will grow normally until they run short of one nutrient.  Then growth is limited by the availability of that nutrient.  Occasionally, two or more nutrients will run short at the same time.  If the nutrients are deficient, or too abundant, then plants will be discolored or deformed.  The deficiency symptoms will indicate which nutrient or nutrients are needed.  However, it is much better to supply additional nutrients before deficiency symptoms appear.  A soil test will tell which nutrients are low before growth is affected.

Macronutrients:

Nitrogen, N : Stimulates leaf and stem growth.  Nitrogen deficiency causes reduced growth and pale-yellowish-green leaves.  The older leaves turn yellowish first since the nitrogen is readily moved from the old leaves to the new growth.  If the soil is cold and wet, nitrogen in the soils is not as available to the plants.  Excess nitrogen may cause potassium deficiency.

Phosphorus, P:  It is important in the germination and growth of seeds, the production of flowers and fruit and the growth of roots.  Phosphorus deficiency causes reduce growth and small leaves that drop early, starting with the oldest leaves.  Leaf color is a dull, bluish green that becomes purplish or bronzed.  Leaf edges often turn scorched brown.  Excess phosphorus may cause potassium deficiency.

Potassium, K: Promotes general vigor, disease resistance and sturdy growth.  Potassium deficiency causes stunted growth, with the leaves positioned close together.  Starting with the older leaves, the leaf tips and edges turn scorched brown and the leaf edges roll up.  Excess potassium may cause calcium and magnesium deficiencies.

Calcium, Ca: It is a major ingredient in cell walls and is important for root growth, especially that of the root tips.  Calcium deficiency causes poorly developed roots with weak tips.  Leaves are distorted, with hooked tips and curled margins.

Magnesium, Mg:  It is a vital for chlorophyll production, and is important in most enzyme reactions. Magnesium deficiency causes different symptoms in different plants, but commonly includes leaf-yellowing, with brilliant tints.  Leaves may suddenly drop off without withering.  Symptoms show first on older leaves.  Excess magnesium may cause calcium deficiency.

Sulfur, S: It is an ingredient in proteins and is necessary for chlorophyll formation.  Sulfur deficiency causes slow growth, with small, round leaves that roll upward and are stiff and brittle.  Leaves drop off and tips buds die.

Micronutrients:

Iron, Fe: It is necessary for chlorophyll formation and for oxygen transfer. Iron deficiency causes leaf-yellowing, while leaf veins stay green.  Younger leaves are affected first.  Excess lime may cause iron deficiency.

Manganese, Mn: It is a catalyst for many enzymes, and is important for chlorophyll formation. Manganese deficiency causes different symptoms in different plants, but commonly causes leaves to turn yellow, while veins stay green.  White or gray specks may appear on leaves.  Older leaves are affected first.  Excess manganese may cause iron deficiency, and may cause symptoms similar to manganese deficiency.

Boron, B:  It is necessary for the movement of sugars, for reproduction and for water intake by cells.  It also tends to keep calcium in a soluble form.  Boron deficiency causes distorted and dead growing tips, hollow stems and deformed fruit.  Leaves are often scorched and curled and are sometimes mottled and discolored.  Young leaves are affected first.  Excess boron may cause scorched leaf edged similar to that caused by potassium or magnesium deficiencies.

Zinc, Zn:  It is necessary for the production of proteins and affects plant size and maturity.  Zinc deficiency causes leaf-yellowing between the veins, usually with purple or dead spots, starting with the older leaves.  Leaves are positioned close together, and are small and deformed.  Fruiting is reduced.  Excess Zinc may cause iron deficiency.

Copper, Cu: It is necessary for the production of proteins and is also important for reproduction.  Copper deficiencies cause bluish-green leaves that may wither or fail to unfold.  Younger leaf tips may be yellow at the edges.  Growing tips may form rosettes.  Excess copper may cause iron deficiency.

Molybdenum, Mo:  It is essential to nitrate enzymes and for the formation of root nodules in beans and peas.  Mo deficiencies cause yellow mottling and dead spots on the leaves.  In some plants, the growing tips are distorted or killed.

Chlorine, Cl:  It may affect carbohydrate metabolism and photosynthesis.  Chlorine deficiencies may cause stubby roots and wilting.  Excess chlorine may cause leaf edges to scorch in a similar way to that caused by potassium deficiency.

(Do not forget to review about feeding your orchids Here!!!!)

What is the pH of your soils? (Videos)

What is the pH of your soils?

The pH is an indication of whether or not the soil is Acid, Neutral or Alkaline.

The soil  reaction and condition is measured in pH units.  When growing bonsai, you will need to be aware of this.  

What soil mix is acid and what is neutral?

Both are important for the health of the bonsai.  The pH also tells you what food is correct for the bonsai.  Azaleas are acid loving (Check our post about Azalea bonsai), while maples are not.  Some conifers prefer a slightly acid soil, while others like a slightly alkaline soil.  Some trees that grow near the sea have an alkaline soil, while some grow on a peat soil, which is very acid.  

The scale for the pH goes from 0 to 14, with a neutral point being pH 7.  The soil increases its acidity from pH 7 to 0, and increases its alkalinity from pH 7 to 14.  

In other words:

• A value of 7 is Neutral
• A value below 7.0 is acid
• slightly acid: 6.1-6.5
• moderately acid: 5.6-6.0
• very acid: 4.5-5.0
• A value above 7.0 is alkaline
• slightly alkaline: 7.4-7.8
• moderately alkaline: 7.9-8.4 (sea water is 8,2)
• strongly alkaline: 8.5-9.0
• very strongly alkaline: above 9.1

Making the right soil mix will depend on the tree's requirements and your local best practice.

A pH lower than 5.5 will mean that many nutrients become very soluble and are readily leached from the soil structure.  At higher pH levels, the nutrients become insoluble and plants cannot easily extract them.  The best take-up is a pH value of around 6.0 to 7.2

Akadama: It has a nominal pH of 6.8. Always sift the fines out and do not use them anywhere near your bonsai, especially as a top dressing, as they will wash in and compact the soil

Kanuma: It has a pH of 4.5 to 5.  It is used for acid-loving plants, such as azaleas, satsukis, ericas and stewartias.

Kiryu: The pH of Kiryu is around 6.8. You should use acid-based fertilizers on acid-loving plants to compensate its alakalinity.

What is a Bonsai? The History of Bonsai (Part 2)

The training of bonsai probably originated before the eleventh century in China, where they were called P'EN TSAI, the precursor of the Japanese name.  Very likely the dwarf trees were developed from small temple landscapes, like bonkei, that symbolized Horai-san, the sacred Taoist mountain of eternal youth and the bonsai were the trees that grew on the steep slopes.  Although there are other theories, thirteenth and fourteenth-century scrolls picture temples with shallow boxes in the courtyards.  Some of the boxes contain small trees; others mounds of earth that suggest mountains.

At first, grotesque, deformed trees were considered good art.  It was not until the mid 1800's that growers in Azakusa Park, a famous nursery center near Tokyo, coined the name bonsai and turned to nature for guidance in shaping their trees.  The Emperor Meiji encouraged them and by the twentieth century bonsai had become a national art of Japan.

The art came slowly to the West. The earliest bonsai to come to the west came mostly from Japan. It was in Paris at the Third Universal Exhibitions in 1878 and later exhibitions in 1889 and 1900 where bonsai were shown for the first time. One of the earliest exhibitions was held in London in 1909, and about the same time a grower from Yokohama, a Mr. Sato  brought to New York the first bonsai most Americans had ever seen.  Although Sato and the London show caused comment, neither did much to popularize bonsai.  Sato held private exhibitions and sold many of his plants to wealthy New Yorkers, but steam heat and lack of information on how to grow them soon caused their demise.  Thus the myth arose that bonsai belong to Japan and are not suited to the conditions in the
West, or to our attitudes.In these early years many westerners felt that the trees looked tortured and many openly voiced their displeasure in the way the trees were being treated by bonsai masters. It was not until 1935 that opinions changed and bonsai was finally classified as an art in the west.

With the end of World War II, bonsai started to gain in popularity in the west. It was the soldiers returning from Japan with bonsai in tow that sparked western interest in the art, even though most of the trees brought home by these soldiers died a short time after their arrival. They survived long enough to create a desire in westerners to learn more about the proper care of their bonsai. The large Japanese-American population was invaluable to Americans in this respect. Their knowledge of the art of bonsai was of great interest to many Americans learning the art.
Today, most of the bonsai in the west clearly show a strong Japanese influence. This is, of course, only natural, given the fact that in the west, this art has been introduced and taught by Japanese.
Gardeners, experienced ones at that, still say "I cant grow bonsai. You have to think as a Japanese to do it" . But I soon discover most of them never tried.  They seem to think the techniques as both difficult and mysterious.

This is far from the truth.  If you can grow other potted plants you can learn to grow bonsai, and you don't need an Oriental turn of mind to be successful.  Bonsai offer delightful contrast to full-scale gardening, a solution to problems of space, an elegant, artistic form of expression. Culture is not complicated.  Just as confined conditions and natural elements keep some wild trees small, certain cultural techniques, purposely applied, accomplish the same thing for our plants.

Dwarfing depends upon growing in a minimal amount of soil, fast drainage, planned prunnings and sometimes wiring.  Because objectives differ from those for other container-grown plants, bonsai are watered, fertilized, top and root pruned differently.  A house plant is rarely potted until it is root-bound.  Bonsai are repotted and root-pruned on schedule to keep them both small and healthy.  (Check out our post about root pruning).

Culture is not complicated, but when I began a friend exclaimed with horror: "You'll lose your mind.  There is so much to learn and it takes forever".  Of course, he was wrong.  While bonsai is hardly one-season gardening from a packet, it is neither so complex nor so prolonged as my friend said.

Techniques are fun to learn and the technical jargon, not difficult to master.  I discovered it was possible to develop attractive in a year or two if that was the objective, and in the beginning it was.  I made "instant bonsai", pruning, trimming and potting low-growing shrubs like juniper with immediate and pleasing results.

Some people call bonsai-growing an art, others call it a hobby. I believe it can be both, the difference more a matter of plant perfection than personal attitude.  I find a special green-thumb enjoyment in growing bonsai, in training and trimming plants.  No other type of gardening has proved so enjoyable.

In Japan several "schools" have developed, each with its own techniques.  The master of one insists on a complex soils mixture for certain decidious trees; another master recommends a very different mixture for the same trees.  The fact that both techniques are successful proves only one thing:

"There is more leeway in the culture of bonsai than is generally admitted".

Thanks Behme.

How to grow Herbs in containers

In all the years I have been growing herbs I have only found a very, very few that cannot be grown in containers.

Containers:

Choose the container to suit the plant.  If it is a tall plant make sure the container has a base wide enough to prevent it toppling over, even if placed outside in a high wind.

A collection of containers is sometimes much easier to look after than a window box, and you can give each herb its own individual bit of tender loving care. If using unconventional containers (old watering cans, sinks, a half beer barrel: make sure they have drainage holes, and gravel or broken pots in the bottom of the container to stop the holes clogging up)

Herbs can suit Hanging baskets but the position is crucial.  They dislike high wind and full sun all day.  Also, they are mostly fast growers and if too cramped or ver-or under watered they will drop their leaves.  They also benefit from being picked regularly, which is not always possible in a hanging basket.  I can recommend the following:  double-flowered chamomile, creeping thymes, prostrate rosemary, catmint, creeping savory, golden marjoram, dwarf marjoram, pineapple mint, pennyroyal and maiden pinks.  

To prepare your hanging basket, line the basket with sphagnum moss followed by a layer of black plastic with holes punched in it. Then, fill the basket half full with compost.  Position the plants, trailers at the side, taller, more upright herbs in the middle.  Do not overcrowd.  Fill up with compost.  Water in well.  Let it drain before hanging on a secure hook or bracket.  Check hanging position for accessibility.  In the height of the season you will need to water at least night and morning.  Make sure that it cannot fall on anyone's head!!

Compost and organic fertilizers:

Choosing the right compost is essential for healthy plants.

Own Soil-Based mix:

If you wish to make a soil-based compost of your own this recipe is fairly reliable:

• 4 parts good weed-free garden top soil
• 3 parts well rotted garden compost
• 3 parts of either coir or wood fiber or composted fine bark, all of which must be moistened prior to mixing with the other ingredients
• 1 part sharp river sand.

Fertilizer:

When making your own compost you will need to add a fertilizer either in granule form or as a liquid feed.  Add at the rate that the manufacturers recommend.  You can buy organic fertilizers from garden centers and hardware stores.  The following organic fertilizers are ideal to be added to potting or seed-sowing composts:

• Liquid Seaweed: This contains small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium and it is also rich in trace elements.  It not only makes a good soil feed but as the elements are easily taken in by the plant, it can also be sprayed on as a foliar feed.
• Calcified Seaweed: This contains calcium magenesium, sodium and numerous trace elements.  It is ideal for adding to seed compost.  Add according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Potting and Seed Composts:

• Multipurpose Potting Compost: This is usually a peat-based compost with added nutrients.  However, the nutrients are too strong for seed sowing and not enough for potting.  therefore I advise you to use a seed compost for seed sowing and a good peat-free potting compost for all your potting needs.
• Peat-free Compost: These are now readily available.  Over the past three decades the options have grown tremendously:

1. Coir:  This is a by-product of coconuts.  Its main advantage is that it is very light.  However, the main disadvantages are that it dries out very quickly, and it leaches the fertilizer.  For this reason it is worth looking out for coir mixed with clay, which acts as a buffer and stops the fertilizer from disappearing, and it also stops the compost drying out too fast.
2. Composted bark:  This is a byproduct of the wood industry.  It is available in many sizes and shapes.  For potting and container growing it is essential to get bark that has been properly composted for an adequate length of time.  This is because newly harvested bark will not only burn the roots and stems of young plants, it will also take the nutrients from the plant and the compost as it starts to decompose.
3. Composted wood fiber: This is another product of the wood industry and is now becoming readily available.  The advantages are that it is very light and absorbent and behaves well in containers.  The disadvantage is that it has to be heat treated, which puts up the cost and is not particularly environmentally friendly.
4. Green Waste: This is a byproduct of city waste.  Many local councils now sell green waste and many composts now include this.  The advantage is that it is environmentally friendly; the disadvantages are the consistency of the contents and if it has not been correctly composted, you can have an invasion of compost fly. There can be a certain amount of heavy metal waste within the compost, which can cause the plants to become distorted.

Maintenance:

Spring:  This is the time of year to pot plants if necessary.  A good sign of when they need this is that the roots are truly protruding from the bottom of the container.  Use a pot next size up.  Carefully remove the plant from its old pot.  Give it a good tidy up (remove any weed and dead leaves.  If it is a perennial, trim growing tip to promote new busy growth)  Place gravel or other drainage material in the bottom of the container and keep the compost sweet by adding a tablespoon of granulated charcoal.  As soon as the plant starts producing new growth or flowers, start feeding regularly with liquid seaweed.

Summer:  Keep a careful eye on the watering; make sure the pots do not dry out fully. Move some plants out of the midday sun.  Deadhead any flowers.  Feed with liquid seaweed, on average once a week.  Remove any pest-damaged leaves.

Fall:  Cut back the perennial herbs.  Weed containers and at the same time remove some of the top compost and redress. Bring any tender plants inside before the frosts.  Start reducing the watering. 

Winter:  Protect all container-grown plants from frosts.  If possible, move into a cold greenhouse.  If weather is very severe, cover the containers in a layer of sacking.  Keep watering to the absolute minimum. 

Thanks Jekka McVicar.