How to take care of the Fuchsias (Aljaba)

A gardening care guide for the fuchsia plant, known as a difficult flower to grow, is provided for you by gardening experts. The romantic, vibrant colored fuchsia plant has blossoms that dangle beautifully from flower pots, hanging baskets, or over the soil in a flower garden. If your not familiar with the fuchsia plant, let me teach you all you need to know about this beautiful plant. The fuchsia flower is a prolific bloomer all summer long and can be grown indoors with proper care. Learn how to grow and care for an interesting addition to your garden or home, the fuchsia plant.

The fuchsia plant is named after Leonhard Fuchs, a German doctor who lived in the early 1500's. Almost all the fuchsia varieties we know of today come from South and Central America, New Zealand, and Tahit.

Originally, nearly 100 varieties of fuchsia were known, but they have been hybridized so much that today there are countless varieties.

Fuchsias are low growing, bush or sometimes tree-like plants. We still cultivate many varieties as indoor plants, and one of them is so hardy that it can winter in the open in the south. Most of the cultivated Fuchsia varieties are hybrids which may be low, rather droopy flowering plants, semi-tall trees or shrub-like plants. People often prop them up to allow the beautiful flowers to hang freely from the leaf crown that radiates from a slender stem.

Fuchsia is rich in color. The eye catching colorfulness of the fuchsia flower is due to the fact that the sepals, leaf lobes and petals, are all richly colored. Fuchsias are the most beautiful when kept in rather cool conditions in half-shade. Too much warmth and sunshine leads to rapid flower loss and severe evaporation from leaves and stems. Always make sure that the fuchsia plant gets the water it needs in the growth period. All varieties of fuchsia require special care, but they will reward all your efforts by forming lovely new flower buds on the tips of their stems.

A gardening care guide for the fuchsia plant, known as a difficult flower to grow, is provided for you by gardening experts. The romantic, vibrant colored fuchsia plant has blossoms that dangle beautifully from flower pots, hanging baskets, or over the soil in a flower garden. If your not familiar with the fuchsia plant, let me teach you all you need to know about this beautiful plant. The fuchsia flower is a prolific bloomer all summer long and can be grown indoors with proper care. Learn how to grow and care for an interesting addition to your garden or home, the fuchsia plant.

Fuchsias are like children, though: each one requires a lifetime of care, or else…well, they won’t be much fun. Before I learned to take care of fuchsias, my well-intentioned gifts were crispy, drowned, or diseased by the Fourth of July. It turns out, though, that—unlike children—fuchsias are easy to care for, if you know a little bit about their needs.

Fuchsia is a genus comprising over 100 species of flowering shrubs and trees. The dangling habit and teardrop shape of the flowers gave rise to the popular name ladies’ eardrop. Most fuchsia are native to South America, where they grow in the understory of tropical or subtropical forests. There are a few interesting exceptions, however: Fuchsia excorticata is a tree from New Zealand that can reach 15 meters in height.

The plants you see at local flower shops are selected clones (cultivars), propagated by cuttings, not from seed. Over 10,000 cultivars have been described, and up to 2,000 are commonly grown. Nearly all of these cultivars, however, share the requirements of their South American ancestors: plenty of shade, frequent but not constant watering, and rich (read: fertilized) soil. To look their best, many fuchsia also need to be pruned at least yearly. If you can meet these needs, your fuchsia plant will remain lovely for many years.

Sun

Morning sun or sun-dappled shade is ideal for most fuchsia. Fuchsia can thrive in the sun, but the root system must be kept moist. Unless you are prepared for eternal vigilance, shelter your fuchsia from the hottest sun.

The flower symbolism associated with the fuchsia is confiding love. Fuchsia flowers are a very decorative pendulous "eardrop" shape, borne in profusion throughout the summer and autumn, and all year in tropical species. In many species, the sepals are bright red and the petals purple, a combination of colors that attract hummingbirds.

Water

Fuchsia should be watered in the morning, frequently enough to keep the soil moist but not soaked. In hot weather, you will need to water every day, while in cooler weather, twice a week will suffice. To decide whether to water your plant, look at and feel the soil. If the soil remains quite wet, right to the surface, then the plant doesn’t need more water. If the topmost layer has started to dry, then give water. Remember: fuchsia is more commonly killed by overwatering than by underwatering.

Fuchsia has a tendency to wilt on hot afternoons. It will perk up if misted with water or moved into the shade. You should avoid watering in the late afternoon or evening, however. Fuchsia has stomata (pores) in their leaves that close in the evening, preventing it from shedding excess water.

Fertilizer

Fuchsia is known as “gross feeders” and need access to plenty of fertilizer. When the plants are flowering, especially in late summer and fall, use water-soluble fertilizer formulated for tomatoes (higher in potash, or “K”). You can apply full-strength fertilizer every 1-2 weeks or quarter-strength fertilizer at every watering. I find the latter approach simpler.

If you plan to keep your fuchsia for years, you will need to overwinter the plant (see below) and then feed through the spring and summer. During the first month of spring, when the fuchsia starts to put out new growth, use high-nitrogen feed. Through late spring and summer, switch to a balanced feed (such as NPK 20-20-20). Then, as the plant starts to flower heavily, use tomato feed as suggested above.

Pruning

Fuchsia only develop flowers on new growth. This means that you need to encourage a nice distribution of new growth each year in order to have a concentrated show of flowers.

Fuchsia should be cut back by one-half to two-thirds in late autumn, as the temperatures cool and growth starts to slow down. Fuchsia in pots can be cut back to 4-8” above soil level. The remaining stems will form the skeleton of next year’s growth. Without this pruning, the plants become long-stemmed over time, with flowers only showing on the newer, outside growth.In the spring, as the fuchsia starts to grow vigorously again, begin applying high-nitrogen fertilizer as mentioned above. When the stems have at least three pairs of leaves, you can “stop” the plant to encourage a bushy shape with more branches and, as a result, more flowers. Simply remove the growing tip from stems after they have acquired several pairs of leaves. Do not remove the growing tip before this point, as new branches will only form at the junctions between leaves and stems. Be sure not to damage these critical areas (the leaf axils). You can stop the plant again after the new branches have several pairs of leaves.

Stopping can be difficult for the novice to stomach. The process may seem to threaten your plant. Remember this, however: the more stops you put in, the more flowers you will get out.

Overwintering

Even a single, light frost can kill some types of fuchsia. Therefore, the plants must be kept above freezing throughout the winter. If the temperature is likely to drop below 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit, then the plants will likely lose their leaves and go dormant. When the plants are defoliated, they can be lightly watered and placed under a table, covered in peat, or wrapped in bubble wrap or newspaper. Note that the fuchsia must not be allowed to dry out over the course of the winter. They will need to be checked and watered occasionally. If the plants dehydrate, they will die. In the spring, when all chance of frost has passed, the plants can be brought out of storage and into a shady spot, then watered. When new growth appears, begin applying fertilizer.

In warmer areas, or if you have access to a heated greenhouse that will keep the temperature above 45 degrees, fuchsia can be kept in green leaf throughout the winter. They will grow slowly throughout the winter, giving them an excellent start in the spring. Keep watering to a minimum so that the potting medium is just moist.

Fuchsia is easy to care for if you remember their sub-tropical origins. Keep them moist but not wet, give plenty of fertilizer, and prune in the autumn to encourage new growth next year.

How to grow Rosemary (Rosmarinus) in your Balcony

Rosemary (botanical name Rosmarinus officinalis), also known as Garden Rosemary, is native to the Mediterranean area. A member of the mint family, it is an evergreen shrub also related to basil, marjoram, and oregano. It is usually found growing by the ocean, and its latin name equates to "dew of the sea." 

Some rosemary plants grow up to 6 feet tall or more, but standard varieties are usually around 3 feet and bushy. The small, gray-green leaves look similar to small pine needles and have a bittersweet, lemony, slightly piney flavor. Small flowers range from white to pale blue to dark blue, usually flowering in late spring. 

Usage of rosemary dates back to 500 b.c., when it was used as a culinary and medicinal herb by the ancient Greeks and Romans. It is still a popular medicinal herb today. 

Most commercially-used, dried rosemary comes to us from Spain, France, and Morocco. However, it is easy to grow your own in temperate climates. 

In 1987, researchers at Rutgers University in New Jersey patented a food preservative derived from rosemary. The chemical, called rosmaridiphenol, is a very stable antioxidant useful in cosmetics and plastic food packaging. 

Rosemary is indeed a versatile, aromatic herb. It is used in a wide variety of dishes, including fruit salads, soups, vegetables, meats (especially lamb), fish, eggs, stuffings, dressings, and even desserts. It is also used to scent cosmetics and perfumes, in insect repellants, and has medicinal uses. You will find rosemary a delightful herb in both savory and sweet recipes.

Rosmarinus means dew of the sea in Latin. It is found in rocky sites and woodland and scrub in the Mediterranean region, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. It is an aromatic, perennial shrub that is now widely cultivated for its aromatic leaves and flowers. Some of the legends connected with this herb are very curious. It is associated with the Virgin Mary. It is said that it used to flower white until Mary hung her cloak on a bush while fleeing Herod's soldiers. It is supposed to be one of the herbs, along with lavender, thyme, pennyroyal, lady's bedstraw, and costmary, found in the manger. For a long time, people believed the reason it would not grow over 6' in 33 years was so as not to stand taller than Christ.

It is found traditionally in wedding bouquets as a reminder to the couple of their wedding vows. In the language of flowers it means remembrance and love. Greek students believed it improved the memory, and so they wore it in their hair when studying for exams. Another tale says that if a rosemary plant grows vigorously in a family's garden that it is the woman who wears the pants in the family. In Egypt, it was found in the wrappings of mummies. In Australia, it is worn on Anzac Day, a day set aside to commemorate the dead. In France, during the Middle Ages, it was combined with juniper and burned in bunches in hospitals to kill bacteria. Modern research shows that it does have antibacterial properties. In Hungary, in 1235, Queen Izabella was stricken with a paralyzing illness. A hermit came to court with a preparation of rosemary soaked in wine, which cured her. Since then, this combination, known as Queen Hungary's Water has been used to treat gout and baldness.

Harvest and Use: Rosemary has many uses besides culinary. It is used as a medicinal, an aromatic, an ornamental in the landscape, as a dye, in cosmetics, and as a houseplant. Rosemary essential oil adds a piney scent to soaps, creams, lotions, perfumes, and toilet water. It is a stimulating herb and makes a wonderful herbal bath when you feel worn out and want to get your blood flowing under your skin again. Just put some in a muslin bag and get in the tub with it. You can also treat yourself to a cleansing and pick-me-up facial steam with a stronginfusion. Blend it in potpourri. It can be woven into wreaths and garlands. Rosemary sachets are very nice for scenting drawers. Dry needles can be added to other herbs and made into closet sachets to repel moths. These smell a lot better than mothballs and are not toxic. It yields a green dye.

Add a handful of sprigs to the coals before grilling for extra aromatics. Throw the stems into the wood stove for scent. Combine rosemary with lavender, santolina, tansy, and lemongrass into a tulle sachet and hang in the closet with woolens as a moth repellent.

Medicinally, a warm tea is good for colds, flu, rheumatic pain, indigestion, and as a stimulating drink for headache and fatigue. It is antiseptic and promotes sweating and the flow of bile. It acts as an antidepressant, a circulatory stimulant, and a tonic for the nervous system and the heart. It is a rich source of vitamin A and vitamin C, phosphorus, iron, magnesium, and zinc. It also has antioxidant properties. A strong infusion makes an antiseptic mouthwash and gargle. The essential oil can be used externally as an ingredient in salves for arthritis and to soothe aching muscles. Extracts are found in shampoos. A hair rinse of a strong infusion can help dandruff and is good for dark hair. Do not use the pure oil internally. Like all medicinal plants, be cautious when using as a healing herb. The essential oil should not be used internally and when used externally, it should be diluted as is true for all essential oils except lavender. It should not be used in pregnancy, as it is a uterine stimulant. Large doses are irritating to the kidneys and stomach, but used in lesser amounts as a seasoning, it is perfectly safe.

The flavor of rosemary harmonizes with those of poultry, fish, lamb, beef, veal, pork, and game, especially roasts. It also goes well with tomatoes, spinach, peas, mushrooms, squash, cheese, eggs, lentils, and complements chives, chervil, chives, thyme, parsley, and bay. Commercially, an antioxidant prepared from both sage and rosemary improves the stability of soy oil and potato chips. Rosemary adds character to mild soups, marinades, salad dressings, and bouquets garni. Include fresh rosemary in all your Italian sauces. Stud roast pork generously with garlic and rosemary sprigs by making a hole in the meat and pressing the garlic and rosemary into it. Try an herb butter by combining 2 teaspoons rosemary to ½ cup butter. Add it to fruit salad to enhance sweetness without adding sugar. Make a rosemary jelly for roast meats and poultry.

Harvest anytime by snipping the ends of the stems. This will cause your plant to bush out. If you do not want it to bush, pull off a few leaves or sprays. Never take more than 20% of the plant. Rosemary is so much better fresh because it dries into tough little sticks that stick in your teeth or ruin the consistency of culinary dishes. If you are cooking with dry rosemary, wrap it in a bundle tied to the pot handle for easy removal. Besides drying, you can freeze whole sprigs. When you need some, remove from the stem. Frozen rosemary is stronger than fresh.

Cultivation and Propagation: Who can walk by a rosemary plant without passing their hand across it in order to get a whiff of its exquisite fragrance? I can't. It makes the work of repotting every fall to bring it in worthwhile. It makes a fine perennial border or a beautiful hedgerow. It is bold yet graceful and is handsome alone or as an accent plant on a patio or terrace. Prostrate varieties can be set so as to creep along a wall. They look great in hanging baskets or window boxes. The flowers attract bees and a delicious honey is made from the nectar. You also can create the spokes of an herb wheel with rosemary. Except for the cultivar 'Arp' which is hardy to zone 6, you can only leave rosemary out all year long if you live in a zone 8 to 10. The two reasons people lose their rosemary in the winter are incorrect watering and too heavy a soil. Judicious watering is imperative. It hates wet feet and will surely die if left un-watered for too long. It doesn't like being near a hot sunny window in summer where it will burn. If you are growing it in a container, consider taking it out of the pot and putting it in the garden for the summer where it can wiggle its toes. You will get much more vigorous growth and a healthier plant to survive the winter indoors. When you do repot it, nice, loose soil mixed with perlite, sand, and vermiculite is a must.

Rosemary can be grown from seed, but since the germination rate is 30% at best, buy plants from a reputable nursery. Once you have a well-established plant, you can increase your supply by taking cuttings. It can also be propagated by layering.

Pests: Indoors, rosemary is susceptible to powdery mildew. Inside winter air is often dry and stagnant, which promotes the disease. A fan for better air circulation helps, as does misting your rosemary.

Creeping Rosemary: Rosmarinus officinalis Prostratus Group is a tender perennial that only reaches 6 to 12 inches in height, but can spread to 3 feet. Plant creeping rosemary in full sun in the garden border, cascading over walls, trailing down banks, and in window boxes and hanging baskets. It's especially pretty when the lavender flowers are blooming and its long, twisting, curling, re-curving branches spill over the edges of a terra cotta pot.General cultivation information above.

Rosemary 'Arp':Rosmarinus officinalis 'Arp'is a perennial that grows 3 to 5 feet tall and spreads 2 to 3 feet. It prefers full sun, and is the best rosemary for colder climates (survives to -10°F with protection of mulch and/or burlap wrap). It has an open, bushy habit, gray-green, lemony-scented leaves and blue flowers. Grow in ordinary, well-drained soil. Never let it dry out and never let it sit in water. General cultivation information above.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis): is widely used as a spice when cooking, especially in Mediterranean dishes. It is also used for its fragrance in soaps and other cosmetics. Traditionally, rosemary has been used medicinally to improve memory, relieve muscle pain and spasm, stimulate hair growth, and support the circulatory and nervous systems. It is also believed to increase menstrual flow, act as an abortifacient (causing miscarriage), increase urine flow, and treat indigestion. Almost none of these uses have been studied scientifically in humans. However, one study in humans found that long term daily intake of rosemary prevents thrombosis.

In the lab, rosemary has been shown to have antioxidant properties. Antioxidants can neutralize harmful particles in the body known as free radicals, which damage cell membranes, tamper with DNA, and even cause cell death. Also in the lab, rosemary oil appears to have antimicrobial properties (killing some bacteria and fungi in test tubes). It isn't known whether rosemary would have the same effect in humans.

Indigestion

Rosemary leaf is used in Europe for indigestion (dyspepsia) and is approved by the German Commission E, which examines the safety and efficacy of herbs.

Muscle and Joint Pain

Applied topically (to the skin), rosemary oil is sometimes used to treat muscle pain and arthritis and to improve circulation. It is approved by the German Commission E for this purpose. However, there is no scientific evidence that it works.

Alopecia

Historically, rosemary has been used to stimulate hair growth. Rosemary was used in one study of 84 people with alopecia areata (a disease in which hair falls out, generally in patches). Those who massaged their scalps with rosemary and other essential oils (including lavender, thyme, and cedarwood) every day for 7 months experienced significant hair regrowth compared to those who massaged their scalps without the essential oils. But the study was not well designed, and it is impossible to say whether rosemary caused the hair growth.

Neutralize Foodborne Pathogens

Several studies show that rosemary inhibits foodborne pathogens like Listeria monocytogenes, B. cereus, and S. aureus.

Improve Memory or Concentration

Rosemary is often used in aromatherapy to increase concentration and memory, and to relieve stress. One study suggests that rosemary, combined with other pleasant smelling oils, may lower cortisol levels and help reduce anxiety. Another study found that the use of lavender and rosemary essential oil sachets reduced test taking stress in graduate nursing students.

How to Take It:

Pediatric: Because rosemary has not been studied in children, it is not recommended for medicinal use in those under age 18. It is safe to eat as a spice in food, however.

Adult: Rosemary can be used as a tea made from the dry herb, a tincture, fluid extract, decoction for a bath, or as an essential oil mixed with other oils for topical use. Speak to your health care provider to find the right dose for your condition. Total daily intake should not exceed 4 - 6 grams of the dried herb. Do not take rosemary oil orally.

Precautions: The use of herbs is a time honored approach to strengthening the body and treating disease. Herbs, however, can trigger side effects and interact with other herbs, supplements, or medications. For these reasons, you should take herbs with care, under the supervision of a health care provider.

Rosemary is generally considered safe when taken in recommended doses. However, there have been occasional reports of allergic reactions. Large quantities of rosemary leaves, because of their volatile oil content, can cause serious side effects, including vomiting, spasms, coma and, in some cases, pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs).

Because higher doses of rosemary may cause miscarriage, pregnant and nursing women should not take rosemary as a supplement. It is safe to eat as a spice in food, however.

People with high blood pressure, ulcers, Crohn's disease, or ulcerative colitis should not take rosemary.

Rosemary oil can be toxic if ingested and should never be taken orally.

Possible Interactions:

Antiplatelet and anticoagulant drugs (blood thinners) -- Rosemary may affect the blood's ability to clot. It could interfere with any blood thinning drugs you are taking, including: Warfarin (Coumadin), Clopidogrel (Plavix), aspirin

ACE inhibitors -- Rosemary may interfere with the action of ACE inhibitors taken for high blood pressure, including: Captpril (Capoten), Enalapril (Vasotec), Lisinopril (Zestril), Fosinopril (Monopril)

Diuretics (water pills) -- Because rosemary can act as a diuretic, it can increase the effects of these drugs. That can raise your risk of dehydration. (Furosemide (Lasix), Hydrocholorothiazide)

Lithium -- Because of its diuretic effects, rosemary might cause the body to lose too much water and the amount of lithium in the body to build up to toxic levels.

Diabetes -- Rosemary may alter blood sugar levels and could interfere with any drugs taken to control diabetes.

Welcome to the Fall (Videos)

Bulbs species that grow well in the Deep South (Part 2)

Caladiums, mostly grown commercially on muck soils in south Florida, represent the other end of the climatic adaptability scale (they are tropicals)  With reasonable care you can get several years of good performance from them.  These should not be planted until the soil temperature is about 65 F or above.  The tubers will not have roots at this time but you can tell which end is up: the bottoms are smooth and rounded, and there are several pointed buds on top.  However, if you plant caladium upside down you will just get more, somewhat smaller, leaves than if you plant right-side up.

When greenhouse growers want caladiums to make more leaves for full pots, they often cut out the central, largest, bud.  This allows the lateral buds, which would have been kept dormant by the large bud, to sprout.  This central bud sometimes produces one large leaf, followed by the flower, which has a typical jack-in-the pulpit shape.  Some of the flowers are quite pretty, but if you do not want flowers, break them off early.  When the leaves mature and begin to die back in summer (they have a genetic tendency to do this), lift the tubers and let them dry in a cool place until the old dry leaves can be pulled off easily.  Then store them in ventilated containers (old stocking or mesh bags are good) in a warm, but not hot, place until the soil warms up in spring.

There is a group of caladium varieties called strap-leafed; their leaves are lanceolate rather than heart-shaped.  These have thicker leaves and are better suited for open sun.  Those with heart-shaped leaves do better in partial shade (even though they are grown under full sun in south Florida).

Several kinds of irises are well adapted to the humid South;  one group originated in Louisiana.  The bulbous irises are called Dutch iris.  The parent species are native to Spain and northern Africa;  it seems that everything the Dutch grow is called Dutch.  Some selections of Dutch irises will establish and persist in our climate, but many are no happier here than are tulips.

Louisiana irises have a color range surpassing that of the other groups.  Hobbyist breeders have improved the form and colors far beyond those you see in our swamps.  These are very tough plants with relatively few problems and will grow despite poor soil drainage that would kill many bulbous plants.  This does not mean that they require poor drainage; like most plants they respond to care.  They grow well in partial shade but need full sun to bloom.  The bloom period is from early spring into early summer.  After several seasons of growth the rhizomes usually branch, older leaves are shed, and bare sections of the rhizomes appear between newer leaves.  This is a good time to dig, divide, replant and share the extra rhizomes with friends.

Japanese iris also thrives in the South, producing large, relatively flat flowers.  These vary in color and form, with some having wider floral segments than others.  Like the Louisiana irises, they grow from rhizomes as well as from seed.  Hobbyists have made great improvements in these also.

You will see lots of Lycoris radiata, the red spider lily or hurricane lily, which blooms in the fall before its leaves emerge.  Other species of Lycoris are not as well adapted to the coastal South but ill do well a bit farther north.  These include yellows, flesh colors, coral shades and in the case of L. squamigera (surprise Lily), pink flowers on two-foot stems in July.  It seems to us that, with only a little effort, breeders could improve the climatic range of these attractive plants......(to be continued)

How to feed your bonsai (Part 2)

Fertilizing:

Most plants in most soils will grow better if additional nutrients are provided b fertilizing.  A soil test will give a complete and accurate measure of the nutrients in the soil.  A general recommendation is that all soils need more nitrogen.  Shallow-rooted plants, such as grass and flowers, need more phosphorus and potassium.  Acid-loving plants, such as rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, junipers and pin oaks, often need more iron.  Sometimes sandy soils need micronutrients, but rarely clay soils.  Certain micronutrients may be deficient in certain parts of the country.  Boron is sometimes deficient in America's Pacific Northwest (as I was told by a friend).

Many fertilizers are available to supply additional nutrients.  Some fertilizers only supply one nutrient. Many supply N, P and K ONLY!!!. A few fertilizers include all the macronutrients and micronutrients (to review the list of macro and micro nutrients check Part 1 of this series Here!!!) 

The label on the package will indicate which nutrients are included, as well as the sources of the nutrients.  The nutrients are identical, whether they come from organic or synthetic source, but the source will affect how quickly the nutrients are available to the plants.  Ammonia sulfate and water soluble fertilizers release most of their nitrogen in a few days, and may burn plants if too much is applied.  Blood meal releases its nitrogen over a period of months.  Organic fertilizers and specially treated synthetic fertilizers release their nutrients slowly, so they last longer and will not burn.  Deeper-rooted trees and shrubs can be fertilized once a year, but shallow-rooted plants, such as grass and flowers, will need regular fertilizing throughout the growing season.

Water can move nitrogen several centimeters in the soil.  Nitrogen applied in the fall may be carried too deep into the soil by winter rains.  February and March is the best time to feed trees and shrubs.  Phosphorus and potassium hardly move in the soil.  To get them down to tree roots, punch a hole in the soil with a bar, or use a root-feeder and inject them 12 inches (30cm) deep every 24 inches (60cm) in rings from the trunk to twice the length of the branches.  The feeder roots are found throughout the area under and around a tree, not just at the drip line.

Thanks Rod Smith.

Products that contain micronutrients.

Micronutrients are supplied in special micronutrients packages (such as MicroMax, STEM, Apex micronutrient package and others) which bind readily to organic matter if used in conjunction with soilless mixes.

The micronutrient mix is sprinkled on the surface of dry soil and then watered in.  It will increase the acidity of the soil temporarily and is best applied when repotting, or once a year in spring, at bud break.

Back to Basics:

Bonsai will need feeding if you use the single-soil approach as they cannot live on water alone.  Feeding is easy, and here is a breakdown of feeds and the basic regime.

• A high Nitrogen feed makes the leaves grow.
• A low Nitrogen feed makes the branches, roots and cambium (under bark) grow.
• I recommend the low nitrogen feed for maples trees in the early flush of growth as it helps the leaves to become stronger.  Use it in the later part of the year, just prior to Fall or in the winter season in colder climates. Then at the very start of the growing season to encourage the development of branches and roots.
• 0.10.10 or similar is a Zero Nitrogen feed. This is used with most conifers at the beginning of the season and through the early stages of bud or candle development.
• Acid loving plants: Use Miracid or similar (Azaleas, satsukis, ericas and stewartia)

For young trees:

In SPRING use at half-strength when the buds are open 0-10-10. Then builds to full strength in late spring and use High Nitrogen after the first flush of growth.  Feed half-strength through most of the growing season in hotter areas.

In SUMMER if in a hot area, do not fertilize.  If in a cool area, stop in midsummer.  The trees cannot absorb fertilizer at this time: they go to into Semi-dormancy because of the heat and stop growing. (I have learned that after having bad experiences, after leaving 4 years in Miami, FL)

In FALL reduce to half-strength and only use a Low-Nitrogen fertilizer.  This helps the bonsai into the main dormant season in cooler climes.

Brand names varies from country to country or even from city to city or by Nurseries but in general it is fine to use popular houseplant food, but not lawn or grass food because it is far too high in nitrogen and can easily damage the roots.

For Mature trees:

I suggest that surface pellet feeds, such as Rapeseed Cake or Bio Gold are the best option. The direct feeding of liquid fertilizers through the soil should be no more than between two and four times a year when a bonsai is mature.  Too much feeding will generate lush growth.  Adding trace elements is, however, important. In all cases, when dealing with older trees, less is more.

Please, leave your comment, and advise for the next posts. We really appreciate your feedback.

What is the pH of your soils?

The pH is an indication of whether or not the soil is Acid, Neutral or Alkaline.

The soil  reaction and condition is measured in pH units.  When growing bonsai, you will need to be aware of this.  

What soil mix is acid and what is neutral?

Both are important for the health of the bonsai.  The pH also tells you what food is correct for the bonsai.  Azaleas are acid loving (Check our post about Azalea bonsai), while maples are not.  Some conifers prefer a slightly acid soil, while others like a slightly alkaline soil.  Some trees that grow near the sea have an alkaline soil, while some grow on a peat soil, which is very acid.  

The scale for the pH goes from 0 to 14, with a neutral point being pH 7.  The soil increases its acidity from pH 7 to 0, and increases its alkalinity from pH 7 to 14.  

In other words:

• A value of 7 is Neutral
• A value below 7.0 is acid
• slightly acid: 6.1-6.5
• moderately acid: 5.6-6.0
• very acid: 4.5-5.0
• A value above 7.0 is alkaline
• slightly alkaline: 7.4-7.8
• moderately alkaline: 7.9-8.4 (sea water is 8,2)
• strongly alkaline: 8.5-9.0
• very strongly alkaline: above 9.1

Making the right soil mix will depend on the tree's requirements and your local best practice.

A pH lower than 5.5 will mean that many nutrients become very soluble and are readily leached from the soil structure.  At higher pH levels, the nutrients become insoluble and plants cannot easily extract them.  The best take-up is a pH value of around 6.0 to 7.2

Akadama: It has a nominal pH of 6.8. Always sift the fines out and do not use them anywhere near your bonsai, especially as a top dressing, as they will wash in and compact the soil

Kanuma: It has a pH of 4.5 to 5.  It is used for acid-loving plants, such as azaleas, satsukis, ericas and stewartias.

Kiryu: The pH of Kiryu is around 6.8. You should use acid-based fertilizers on acid-loving plants to compensate its alakalinity.

How to grow Herbs in containers

In all the years I have been growing herbs I have only found a very, very few that cannot be grown in containers.

Containers:

Choose the container to suit the plant.  If it is a tall plant make sure the container has a base wide enough to prevent it toppling over, even if placed outside in a high wind.

A collection of containers is sometimes much easier to look after than a window box, and you can give each herb its own individual bit of tender loving care. If using unconventional containers (old watering cans, sinks, a half beer barrel: make sure they have drainage holes, and gravel or broken pots in the bottom of the container to stop the holes clogging up)

Herbs can suit Hanging baskets but the position is crucial.  They dislike high wind and full sun all day.  Also, they are mostly fast growers and if too cramped or ver-or under watered they will drop their leaves.  They also benefit from being picked regularly, which is not always possible in a hanging basket.  I can recommend the following:  double-flowered chamomile, creeping thymes, prostrate rosemary, catmint, creeping savory, golden marjoram, dwarf marjoram, pineapple mint, pennyroyal and maiden pinks.  

To prepare your hanging basket, line the basket with sphagnum moss followed by a layer of black plastic with holes punched in it. Then, fill the basket half full with compost.  Position the plants, trailers at the side, taller, more upright herbs in the middle.  Do not overcrowd.  Fill up with compost.  Water in well.  Let it drain before hanging on a secure hook or bracket.  Check hanging position for accessibility.  In the height of the season you will need to water at least night and morning.  Make sure that it cannot fall on anyone's head!!

Compost and organic fertilizers:

Choosing the right compost is essential for healthy plants.

Own Soil-Based mix:

If you wish to make a soil-based compost of your own this recipe is fairly reliable:

• 4 parts good weed-free garden top soil
• 3 parts well rotted garden compost
• 3 parts of either coir or wood fiber or composted fine bark, all of which must be moistened prior to mixing with the other ingredients
• 1 part sharp river sand.

Fertilizer:

When making your own compost you will need to add a fertilizer either in granule form or as a liquid feed.  Add at the rate that the manufacturers recommend.  You can buy organic fertilizers from garden centers and hardware stores.  The following organic fertilizers are ideal to be added to potting or seed-sowing composts:

• Liquid Seaweed: This contains small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium and it is also rich in trace elements.  It not only makes a good soil feed but as the elements are easily taken in by the plant, it can also be sprayed on as a foliar feed.
• Calcified Seaweed: This contains calcium magenesium, sodium and numerous trace elements.  It is ideal for adding to seed compost.  Add according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Potting and Seed Composts:

• Multipurpose Potting Compost: This is usually a peat-based compost with added nutrients.  However, the nutrients are too strong for seed sowing and not enough for potting.  therefore I advise you to use a seed compost for seed sowing and a good peat-free potting compost for all your potting needs.
• Peat-free Compost: These are now readily available.  Over the past three decades the options have grown tremendously:

1. Coir:  This is a by-product of coconuts.  Its main advantage is that it is very light.  However, the main disadvantages are that it dries out very quickly, and it leaches the fertilizer.  For this reason it is worth looking out for coir mixed with clay, which acts as a buffer and stops the fertilizer from disappearing, and it also stops the compost drying out too fast.
2. Composted bark:  This is a byproduct of the wood industry.  It is available in many sizes and shapes.  For potting and container growing it is essential to get bark that has been properly composted for an adequate length of time.  This is because newly harvested bark will not only burn the roots and stems of young plants, it will also take the nutrients from the plant and the compost as it starts to decompose.
3. Composted wood fiber: This is another product of the wood industry and is now becoming readily available.  The advantages are that it is very light and absorbent and behaves well in containers.  The disadvantage is that it has to be heat treated, which puts up the cost and is not particularly environmentally friendly.
4. Green Waste: This is a byproduct of city waste.  Many local councils now sell green waste and many composts now include this.  The advantage is that it is environmentally friendly; the disadvantages are the consistency of the contents and if it has not been correctly composted, you can have an invasion of compost fly. There can be a certain amount of heavy metal waste within the compost, which can cause the plants to become distorted.

Maintenance:

Spring:  This is the time of year to pot plants if necessary.  A good sign of when they need this is that the roots are truly protruding from the bottom of the container.  Use a pot next size up.  Carefully remove the plant from its old pot.  Give it a good tidy up (remove any weed and dead leaves.  If it is a perennial, trim growing tip to promote new busy growth)  Place gravel or other drainage material in the bottom of the container and keep the compost sweet by adding a tablespoon of granulated charcoal.  As soon as the plant starts producing new growth or flowers, start feeding regularly with liquid seaweed.

Summer:  Keep a careful eye on the watering; make sure the pots do not dry out fully. Move some plants out of the midday sun.  Deadhead any flowers.  Feed with liquid seaweed, on average once a week.  Remove any pest-damaged leaves.

Fall:  Cut back the perennial herbs.  Weed containers and at the same time remove some of the top compost and redress. Bring any tender plants inside before the frosts.  Start reducing the watering. 

Winter:  Protect all container-grown plants from frosts.  If possible, move into a cold greenhouse.  If weather is very severe, cover the containers in a layer of sacking.  Keep watering to the absolute minimum. 

Thanks Jekka McVicar.

Tips & Care: Basic Tools and Equipment for Orchids (Part 3: Mounts)

MOUNTS:

Although most orchids may be successfully grown in pots, certain species prefer to be mounted on a substrate more closely resembling the one they would grow on in nature.  The basic requirements of a mounting material are much the same as a potting material;  it must drain perfectly and not decompose rapidly.

The most commonly available mounting materials are slabs or logs of tree fern, cork bark or cypress.

Occasionally, one can find pieces of Florida buttonwood or other hardwoods that make good mounting materials.  Tree fern is the most moisture-retentive of the three and may also be found carved into decorative shapes and totems.  These materials may be purchased in large sizes and sawed to meet individual requirements or purchased in assorted sizes.

Any hardwood that is non resinous and does not decay rapidly can probably be used for mounting orchids.  Inquire locally to see what local materials other growers might use.  When using tree fern mounts, be sure to orient them so that the fibers are going up and down in order to provide proper drainage.

BASKETS:

A very convenient way to grow orchids is to use baskets.  Often, the plant won't need to be repotted until the basket deteriorates.  If the plant begins to outgrow its home, it can simply be placed, basket and all, in a larger basket.  These containers because of their open nature, also have the advantage of being better able to meet epiphytic orchids' drainage and root aeration requirements.  Some orchids, notably those in the Vanda group, prefer to be grown in baskets because of their rambling aerial roots.  Indeed, most growers in subtropical areas of Florida and the Gulf States use no medium at all when growing vandaceous plants in baskets.  

Wire or plastic baskets are available, but wooden baskets are the most commonly used.  They range in size from 4 to 16 inches (10-40 cms) and are usually sqaure but can be hexagonal.  Cedar and teak are the most common woods and cypress baskets are available from time to time.

Teak baskets tend to last longer and consequently are more expensive.  when using a fine potting medium in a basket, like it first with an old piece of fiberglass windown screen, sphagnum moss , or coconut fiber to keep the medium from falling out.  For more info check the Part 2 of this series

The main disadvantage of baskets is that they must be hung.  also, the display of blooming plants is not as easy as with a pot.  Wide-ranging roots may also be a problem, preventing easy placement in containers for the home.

WIRE PRODUCTS:

Wire is used to fasten, secure, stabilize, and hang orchids.  Although it is easy to make your own, it is more convenient to buy premade wire products.  Rhizome clips are the most straightforward way to stabilize a newly potted sympodial orchid.  Styles are available for both plastic and clay pots.  You have passed the potting test when you can secure a mature cattleya with one properly placed rhizome clip.  

Occasionally, a tall plant needs a little extra support.  The grower can use a straight stake that fastens to the edge of the pot for this purpose.

A ring stake, or hoop, will help contain an unruly orchid as well as provide support.  Single and double pot hangers in an assortment of lengths allow you to place a pot almost anywhere.  Many growers hang their whole collection using "s" hooks of varying lengths to achieve intermediate heights.  Baskets are hung with three or four strands of light-gauge wire.  Fourteen or 17-gauge wire is useful for attaching plants to mounts or engineering a vanda into a basket.

STAKES:

Bamboo and other straight stakes may be inserted into the potting medium to provide additional support for a newly-potted orchid.  They are also used for setting a vandaceous plant into a basket.  Their primary use is to support the inflorescence of an orchid in a more attractive fashion as well as prevent its collapse or breakage.

TIES:

Like wire products, ties are essential ancillary items to orchid growing and potting.  Many growers like to tie pseudobulbs, together to make a neater arrangement when repotting.  Some may tie a plant to a support stake to add additional security.  Plants can be tied to mounts using almost any material including monofilament fishing line or old pantyhose cut into strips.  A basic selection of ties includes plastic ribbon tie, twist tie, bell wire, and perhaps, some monofilament or twine.

NAME TAGS:

Help eliminate namelss orchids; always use a name tag.  There are labels available in a style to suit almost any use, so keep a selection on hand.  Most are plastic; aluminum tags are available for extreme growing conditions or where permanency is desired.  Some provide spaces for bloom and repot information; some are available in colors so that you may code certain plants.  Most simply slip into the pot, while others tie on with wire or loops.

FUNGICIDE:

A wettable fungicide powder should be used to dress freshly cut plant parts.  This provides a barrier to infection until the orchid heals itself.  An inexpensive product such as Captan, Ferbam or Zineb can be made into a paste about the consistency of heavy cream and dabbed onto the cut part using disposable cotton swabs.

Some growers prefer to just dab a little of the powder onto freshly cut orchid tissue.  Fungicide can also be mixed in a quart hand sprayer according to label instructions and used for spraying seedlings or plants that have been bruised during unpotting.

Thanks a lot to Greg Allikas for his contribution on this post.Join Greg Allikas on Facebook