How to take care of the Fuchsias (Aljaba)

A gardening care guide for the fuchsia plant, known as a difficult flower to grow, is provided for you by gardening experts. The romantic, vibrant colored fuchsia plant has blossoms that dangle beautifully from flower pots, hanging baskets, or over the soil in a flower garden. If your not familiar with the fuchsia plant, let me teach you all you need to know about this beautiful plant. The fuchsia flower is a prolific bloomer all summer long and can be grown indoors with proper care. Learn how to grow and care for an interesting addition to your garden or home, the fuchsia plant.

The fuchsia plant is named after Leonhard Fuchs, a German doctor who lived in the early 1500's. Almost all the fuchsia varieties we know of today come from South and Central America, New Zealand, and Tahit.

Originally, nearly 100 varieties of fuchsia were known, but they have been hybridized so much that today there are countless varieties.

Fuchsias are low growing, bush or sometimes tree-like plants. We still cultivate many varieties as indoor plants, and one of them is so hardy that it can winter in the open in the south. Most of the cultivated Fuchsia varieties are hybrids which may be low, rather droopy flowering plants, semi-tall trees or shrub-like plants. People often prop them up to allow the beautiful flowers to hang freely from the leaf crown that radiates from a slender stem.

Fuchsia is rich in color. The eye catching colorfulness of the fuchsia flower is due to the fact that the sepals, leaf lobes and petals, are all richly colored. Fuchsias are the most beautiful when kept in rather cool conditions in half-shade. Too much warmth and sunshine leads to rapid flower loss and severe evaporation from leaves and stems. Always make sure that the fuchsia plant gets the water it needs in the growth period. All varieties of fuchsia require special care, but they will reward all your efforts by forming lovely new flower buds on the tips of their stems.

A gardening care guide for the fuchsia plant, known as a difficult flower to grow, is provided for you by gardening experts. The romantic, vibrant colored fuchsia plant has blossoms that dangle beautifully from flower pots, hanging baskets, or over the soil in a flower garden. If your not familiar with the fuchsia plant, let me teach you all you need to know about this beautiful plant. The fuchsia flower is a prolific bloomer all summer long and can be grown indoors with proper care. Learn how to grow and care for an interesting addition to your garden or home, the fuchsia plant.

Fuchsias are like children, though: each one requires a lifetime of care, or else…well, they won’t be much fun. Before I learned to take care of fuchsias, my well-intentioned gifts were crispy, drowned, or diseased by the Fourth of July. It turns out, though, that—unlike children—fuchsias are easy to care for, if you know a little bit about their needs.

Fuchsia is a genus comprising over 100 species of flowering shrubs and trees. The dangling habit and teardrop shape of the flowers gave rise to the popular name ladies’ eardrop. Most fuchsia are native to South America, where they grow in the understory of tropical or subtropical forests. There are a few interesting exceptions, however: Fuchsia excorticata is a tree from New Zealand that can reach 15 meters in height.

The plants you see at local flower shops are selected clones (cultivars), propagated by cuttings, not from seed. Over 10,000 cultivars have been described, and up to 2,000 are commonly grown. Nearly all of these cultivars, however, share the requirements of their South American ancestors: plenty of shade, frequent but not constant watering, and rich (read: fertilized) soil. To look their best, many fuchsia also need to be pruned at least yearly. If you can meet these needs, your fuchsia plant will remain lovely for many years.

Sun

Morning sun or sun-dappled shade is ideal for most fuchsia. Fuchsia can thrive in the sun, but the root system must be kept moist. Unless you are prepared for eternal vigilance, shelter your fuchsia from the hottest sun.

The flower symbolism associated with the fuchsia is confiding love. Fuchsia flowers are a very decorative pendulous "eardrop" shape, borne in profusion throughout the summer and autumn, and all year in tropical species. In many species, the sepals are bright red and the petals purple, a combination of colors that attract hummingbirds.

Water

Fuchsia should be watered in the morning, frequently enough to keep the soil moist but not soaked. In hot weather, you will need to water every day, while in cooler weather, twice a week will suffice. To decide whether to water your plant, look at and feel the soil. If the soil remains quite wet, right to the surface, then the plant doesn’t need more water. If the topmost layer has started to dry, then give water. Remember: fuchsia is more commonly killed by overwatering than by underwatering.

Fuchsia has a tendency to wilt on hot afternoons. It will perk up if misted with water or moved into the shade. You should avoid watering in the late afternoon or evening, however. Fuchsia has stomata (pores) in their leaves that close in the evening, preventing it from shedding excess water.

Fertilizer

Fuchsia is known as “gross feeders” and need access to plenty of fertilizer. When the plants are flowering, especially in late summer and fall, use water-soluble fertilizer formulated for tomatoes (higher in potash, or “K”). You can apply full-strength fertilizer every 1-2 weeks or quarter-strength fertilizer at every watering. I find the latter approach simpler.

If you plan to keep your fuchsia for years, you will need to overwinter the plant (see below) and then feed through the spring and summer. During the first month of spring, when the fuchsia starts to put out new growth, use high-nitrogen feed. Through late spring and summer, switch to a balanced feed (such as NPK 20-20-20). Then, as the plant starts to flower heavily, use tomato feed as suggested above.

Pruning

Fuchsia only develop flowers on new growth. This means that you need to encourage a nice distribution of new growth each year in order to have a concentrated show of flowers.

Fuchsia should be cut back by one-half to two-thirds in late autumn, as the temperatures cool and growth starts to slow down. Fuchsia in pots can be cut back to 4-8” above soil level. The remaining stems will form the skeleton of next year’s growth. Without this pruning, the plants become long-stemmed over time, with flowers only showing on the newer, outside growth.In the spring, as the fuchsia starts to grow vigorously again, begin applying high-nitrogen fertilizer as mentioned above. When the stems have at least three pairs of leaves, you can “stop” the plant to encourage a bushy shape with more branches and, as a result, more flowers. Simply remove the growing tip from stems after they have acquired several pairs of leaves. Do not remove the growing tip before this point, as new branches will only form at the junctions between leaves and stems. Be sure not to damage these critical areas (the leaf axils). You can stop the plant again after the new branches have several pairs of leaves.

Stopping can be difficult for the novice to stomach. The process may seem to threaten your plant. Remember this, however: the more stops you put in, the more flowers you will get out.

Overwintering

Even a single, light frost can kill some types of fuchsia. Therefore, the plants must be kept above freezing throughout the winter. If the temperature is likely to drop below 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit, then the plants will likely lose their leaves and go dormant. When the plants are defoliated, they can be lightly watered and placed under a table, covered in peat, or wrapped in bubble wrap or newspaper. Note that the fuchsia must not be allowed to dry out over the course of the winter. They will need to be checked and watered occasionally. If the plants dehydrate, they will die. In the spring, when all chance of frost has passed, the plants can be brought out of storage and into a shady spot, then watered. When new growth appears, begin applying fertilizer.

In warmer areas, or if you have access to a heated greenhouse that will keep the temperature above 45 degrees, fuchsia can be kept in green leaf throughout the winter. They will grow slowly throughout the winter, giving them an excellent start in the spring. Keep watering to a minimum so that the potting medium is just moist.

Fuchsia is easy to care for if you remember their sub-tropical origins. Keep them moist but not wet, give plenty of fertilizer, and prune in the autumn to encourage new growth next year.

Morikami Japanese Garden, Boca Raton, FL. USA (Part 2)

Morikami Japanese Garden, Boca Raton, FL. USA (Part 1)

art

What is a Bonsai? The History of Bonsai (Part 2)

The training of bonsai probably originated before the eleventh century in China, where they were called P'EN TSAI, the precursor of the Japanese name.  Very likely the dwarf trees were developed from small temple landscapes, like bonkei, that symbolized Horai-san, the sacred Taoist mountain of eternal youth and the bonsai were the trees that grew on the steep slopes.  Although there are other theories, thirteenth and fourteenth-century scrolls picture temples with shallow boxes in the courtyards.  Some of the boxes contain small trees; others mounds of earth that suggest mountains.

At first, grotesque, deformed trees were considered good art.  It was not until the mid 1800's that growers in Azakusa Park, a famous nursery center near Tokyo, coined the name bonsai and turned to nature for guidance in shaping their trees.  The Emperor Meiji encouraged them and by the twentieth century bonsai had become a national art of Japan.

The art came slowly to the West. The earliest bonsai to come to the west came mostly from Japan. It was in Paris at the Third Universal Exhibitions in 1878 and later exhibitions in 1889 and 1900 where bonsai were shown for the first time. One of the earliest exhibitions was held in London in 1909, and about the same time a grower from Yokohama, a Mr. Sato  brought to New York the first bonsai most Americans had ever seen.  Although Sato and the London show caused comment, neither did much to popularize bonsai.  Sato held private exhibitions and sold many of his plants to wealthy New Yorkers, but steam heat and lack of information on how to grow them soon caused their demise.  Thus the myth arose that bonsai belong to Japan and are not suited to the conditions in the
West, or to our attitudes.In these early years many westerners felt that the trees looked tortured and many openly voiced their displeasure in the way the trees were being treated by bonsai masters. It was not until 1935 that opinions changed and bonsai was finally classified as an art in the west.

With the end of World War II, bonsai started to gain in popularity in the west. It was the soldiers returning from Japan with bonsai in tow that sparked western interest in the art, even though most of the trees brought home by these soldiers died a short time after their arrival. They survived long enough to create a desire in westerners to learn more about the proper care of their bonsai. The large Japanese-American population was invaluable to Americans in this respect. Their knowledge of the art of bonsai was of great interest to many Americans learning the art.
Today, most of the bonsai in the west clearly show a strong Japanese influence. This is, of course, only natural, given the fact that in the west, this art has been introduced and taught by Japanese.
Gardeners, experienced ones at that, still say "I cant grow bonsai. You have to think as a Japanese to do it" . But I soon discover most of them never tried.  They seem to think the techniques as both difficult and mysterious.

This is far from the truth.  If you can grow other potted plants you can learn to grow bonsai, and you don't need an Oriental turn of mind to be successful.  Bonsai offer delightful contrast to full-scale gardening, a solution to problems of space, an elegant, artistic form of expression. Culture is not complicated.  Just as confined conditions and natural elements keep some wild trees small, certain cultural techniques, purposely applied, accomplish the same thing for our plants.

Dwarfing depends upon growing in a minimal amount of soil, fast drainage, planned prunnings and sometimes wiring.  Because objectives differ from those for other container-grown plants, bonsai are watered, fertilized, top and root pruned differently.  A house plant is rarely potted until it is root-bound.  Bonsai are repotted and root-pruned on schedule to keep them both small and healthy.  (Check out our post about root pruning).

Culture is not complicated, but when I began a friend exclaimed with horror: "You'll lose your mind.  There is so much to learn and it takes forever".  Of course, he was wrong.  While bonsai is hardly one-season gardening from a packet, it is neither so complex nor so prolonged as my friend said.

Techniques are fun to learn and the technical jargon, not difficult to master.  I discovered it was possible to develop attractive in a year or two if that was the objective, and in the beginning it was.  I made "instant bonsai", pruning, trimming and potting low-growing shrubs like juniper with immediate and pleasing results.

Some people call bonsai-growing an art, others call it a hobby. I believe it can be both, the difference more a matter of plant perfection than personal attitude.  I find a special green-thumb enjoyment in growing bonsai, in training and trimming plants.  No other type of gardening has proved so enjoyable.

In Japan several "schools" have developed, each with its own techniques.  The master of one insists on a complex soils mixture for certain decidious trees; another master recommends a very different mixture for the same trees.  The fact that both techniques are successful proves only one thing:

"There is more leeway in the culture of bonsai than is generally admitted".

Thanks Behme.

Bonsai Root Pruning & Repotting (videos)

Tips & Care: Bonsai Root Pruning and Repotting

Root pruning is an fundamental part of good bonsai care. There is no tree that can survive in a container indefinitely without some sort of root work. 

Root Pruning is done to:

• Promote a fibrous root system
• Promote good surface roots
• Produce a balanced system
• Remove any deformed roots
• Check for pests and disease
• Balance the ratio between foliage and roots

Bonsai need water rich, nutritious material to grow their roots. In the earth this is no problem, roots can travel many tens of feet from the plant stem in search of nutrients and water. 

Roots should be examined at least every two years. Depending on the age and species, and the size of the pot, roots can be become root bound.

Roots will naturally curve somewhat inside the soil, when they encounter a hard obstacle such as the side of the pot, they curve inward. Eventually they have nowhere else to go as more roots occupy the available space.

The idea is that you should prune the roots and repot your bonsai when they show symptoms of decline and/or chlorosis, or when the bonsai is rootbound (it begins to push out of the pot).
The frequency of root pruning depends on the tree species, its container and the environment. Remember that root pruning damages the tree, restricting its ability to take up water and nutrients, so it has to be done at times of the year that the stresses on the plant are minimal. For temperate climate plants there are two times of the year that these conditions are optimal, late fall and early spring. Tropical plants can usually be root pruned and repotted during periods of 'quiescence' or slow growth.


Before that happens, they should be trimmed with very sharp scissors. Use a chop-stick or knitting needle and gently brush away the soil from the root ball.

Remove about a third of the soil to expose the roots you will be cutting. (your scissors will stay much sharper if they do not have to cut through the potting soil and the grit it contains)  Place the root ball in a bucket of water to prevent the roots from becoming too dry.

Then, trim back existing roots to about two-thirds to one-half their current length, eliminating a few younger and a few older roots.  

Be sure to leave a good number of main roots to serve as anchors and to continue to supply the plant with nutrients. Repot into a larger pot suitable for larger and older trees. To prevent the tree from tipping over after repotting you will need to secure the root ball in it's container with wire.

Anchor two lengths of wire inside the pot, either by securing them through the drain hole or the two anchor points some bonsai containers provide.

Place a piece of wire mesh over the drain hole, apply a layer of gravel for drainage and then a layer of soil slightly mounded near the middle of the pot.

Place the root ball on top of the mound and then bend the wire across the root ball to firmly anchor it in place. 

Continue to add soil until the roots are covered and the soil is just below the top rim of the container.

Position the rock planting slightly off-center and rotate until you have an attractive position.  Then press the planting into the loose media. Using one pair of ends, tie down the rock planting on one side, then the other. The rock planting should be secured firmly. If not, pass a loose end under the other tie; pull taut to take up any slack, and knot. Repeat if necessary. The ties will insure that the planting will not shake. Ties can be removed when the roots are established in the media. With the spoon firm down the surface of the visible media which should have sunk down about 1/4" below the pot's inner rim.

The first watering: Fill a pan with about 2" of water and allow the newly potted plant to sit in the water for 30 minutes or so.  This will allow all parts of the media to become totally saturated.  Allow the plant to drain, then give the surface a finishing leveling by gently patting with a spoon.

Watering a recently repotted bonsai is best done by the same saturation method.  The water pushes out all air from the porous media and replaces it with water.  New air rushes in as excess water drains out.  This repetitive sequence of total water saturation and air exchanges is the ideal condition for healthy root and plant growth.  Watering from the top does not wet all parts of the root-ball thoroughly.  Proper watering is the key to success!  Place your palm on the surface of the media.  If it feels wet,  don't water.  Water when it feels slightly cool.  Don't allow it to completely dry out!  You can also judge the amount of water in the container by the weight as a recently watered plant is noticeably heavier.